How To Choose Your Mtb Tires?

Your tires are the first and only thing that connects you to the ground. It is also your first shock absorber!

Unfortunately, too often overlooked by novices, tires are essential parts of your bike. The choice of MTB tires influences comfort, traction, performance victory996, but also safety. You still have to know them well to make the most of all their possibilities.

THE DIMENSIONS OF AN ATV TIRE

Commonly, you will meet the dimension in this form, for example, 26 x 1.95 “

26″ corresponds to the diameter in inches of your wheel and 1.95 “corresponds to the width of your tire.

If the diameter is normalized (in adult mountain bikes, the wheels are 26 “, 27.5” or 29 “inches in diameter), it is not the same for the tire section.

Thus, we sometimes find tires of 1.75 as wide as tires of 1.95, themselves wider than 2.10.

The tire section is different depending on the brand because there is no standardization at this level.

THE CARCASS

It is made up of more or less thick nylon or cotton threads, braided.

On mountain bikes, the flexible carcasses offer more latitude in the deformation of the tire. So you will get greater traction and better comfort by absorbing shocks.

The number that determines the flexibility of the carcass is indicated by the number of TPI, an English measure indicating the number of threads per inch (1 inch = 2.5 cm). Above 100 TPI, the carcass is very flexible, and the tire considered to be a top of the range.

THE YOKE AND THE RODS

The screed covering the carcass is made up of a mixture of rubber and other chemical ingredients (such as silica), which influence the density, rolling resistance, adhesion of the mud to the rubber, wear and appearance.

Today, some tires have different hardness clevises depending on the area of ​​the tires.

Rods: These are the two hoops that press the tire onto the rim.

Rigid rods are made of steel wire. They are intended for entry-level tires (heavier) or tires that need to be perfectly maintained on the rim, despite low operating pressures.

The flexible rods are made of aramid or para-amide, including Kevlar, and are intended for high-end tires. Significantly lighter, they have the advantages of often easier mounting and ease of storage by offering the possibility of folding the tire.

The tubeless and Tubeless Ready tire tracks are specific to guarantee the tightness of the rim/tire pair.

PRESSURE

The air pressure in the ATV tire affects its dynamic characteristics. Tires with a small section must be more inflated than large sections, to avoid punctures by pinching. It should also be borne in mind that over-inflation reduces grip, motor skills, and comfort by favoring performance on smooth terrain.

Conversely, when deflating, comfort improves as well as grip because the surface in contact with the ground is greater.

THE CRAMPONS

The role of a rear tire is to promote motor skills. For this, it is generally provided with aggressive studs on the tread. These are often perpendicular to the rolling direction, to bite the ground (in the form of paving stones, round or square). The study will be of lower height if the ground is dry and if the tire is intended to promote performance.

The front-wheel steers: it is largely on it that precision and grip in curves depend. For this reason, the crampon will be more aggressive, rather in the form of directional arrows, and more pronounced on the external edges of the tire (the area in contact with the ground, when the bike will take an angle).

The choice according to your practice:

Enduro – All mountain

The section around 2.35 “, aggressive side studs but round profile to maintain an advantageous performance.

DH – Descent

Large section with aggressive side studs that are well supported for maximum grip when cornering, and solid central blocks to resist the bending induced by heavy braking

XC – Cross Country

XC Roulant: fine and fairly low studs, a medium section, and an often lightened carcass for a minimum weight and maximum output. For dry and rolling terrain only. From 1.90 “to 2.15”.

XC Rocailleux: more volume for better shock absorption. Double or triple density eraser and prominent side studs for a more effective grip.

Mud

The section between 2.0 “and 2.2” spikes moderately spaced for excellent grip in all conditions.

TUBELESS FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING

Acclaimed by all mechanical sports, the pneumatic technology of Tubeless has logically taken over mountain biking. Hutchinson and Michelin collaborated with Mavic to popularize this system in 1998-1999. Tubeless is a tire that does not require an inner tube.

The tire and the rim form a watertight unit thanks to specific tire rods, the beads of which “clip” onto the shoulders of the rim.

The rim itself must be completely waterproof. Some are specifically designed for, while others can be transformed into Tubeless via a specific assembly.

Tubeless limits the risk of punctures by pinching (shearing of the chamber between the obstacle and the rim) and allows rolling with lower pressures.

Tires called Tubeless Ready were then developed to save weight by retaining the tubeless rods so that the tire clips into the rim but by requiring the use of preventive fluid to waterproof the carcass of the tire, which is lightened and approximates a Tubetype carcass (inner tube).

How To Choose Your Dirt / Street Mountain Bike?

Dirt, which comes from English Dirt Jumping (Dirt, which means earth, the surface on which this sport takes place), is a spectacular discipline that comes from BMX. It involves performing figures in the air, each with a name (Tailwop, Superman, Flair, 360 °, Backflip, etc.). The Dirters’ playing field is a field of earth bumps created from scratch with ramps and modules. Dirt is also practiced in town on artificial structures such as skate parks; this is called Street 3win2u.

In competition, a course is imposed, and the figures are scored by a jury on the difficulty, technique, height, fluidity, and style, http://www.3win22.com/my/en-us/.

It is a very visual sport which makes it possible to make the show and to attract the spectators. There are several competitions in the world; the best-known championship is the FMBWT (Freeride Mountain Bike World Tour), where the best athletes of the discipline meet.

THE SPECIAL FEATURES OF A DIRT MTB

The Dirt MTB is a small compact (26 inches) MTB with a semi-rigid frame with low sloping, i.e., the upper tube descends low enough so that the saddle is not too high and leaves on the dirter the possibility of carrying out the figures easily. It must be solid and equipped with a front suspension with a small clearance (100 mm) to absorb shocks. Dirt is a risky practice with jumps that can go up to several meters high; the choice of the frame is, therefore important, it must be well adapted to avoid putting yourself in danger.

The Dirt MTB has a small handlebar for ease of handling, a single chainring like on BMX, and a single brake to slow down if necessary. They will have a brake sheath long enough for the pilot to perform tricks by turning the handlebars several times.

EQUIPMENT IS ESSENTIAL

The most important element of the equipment: the helmet. It will serve to protect your head in the event of a fall; there is the bowl helmet or the full-face helmet, both types are common among the dirters, knowing that the full-face helmet is the one that will protect you the best. Whether you are a beginner or confirmed, you will need to include in your equipment various protections: knee pads, elbow pads, and a back protector.

You can’t improvise overnight, and it is strongly recommended to start on terrain with small bumps to acquire the technique, which will then allow you to progress to larger jumps.