Clean Bike Chains: How To Do It And Best Tips

When our bike accumulates months of use, it is completely normal that the chain loses its initial qualities and needs a wash from time to time.

Cleaning it is a fundamental step so that the mechanical operation of the vehicle is ideal. Otherwise, the chain will not take long to come off or to not change the dishes and gears well.

Techniques for cleaning the bicycle chain

Each person who has cleaned the chain of their bicycle will advise you on a different technique and product to leave it untouched. Below, we highlight the three most common techniques to get rid of the dirt accumulated in the chain, showing you the positive and negative side of each one:

Using a rag

This way of cleaning the chain is not complex. First, we put the degreaser in the area of ​​the chain that will be in contact with dishes and pinions. As we introduce the liquid, we move the pedals back so that all parts of the chain are impregnated with a degreaser.

Once we have fulfilled this objective, we must take the rag and hold the chain completely. Next, we will pedal backward so that the rag can touch the entire chain. It will take several turns for it to reach an optimal cleaning state.

As a main positive point, we must highlight the speed and simplicity with which we remove dirt from the chain. However, with this technique, the holes between the rollers (where the chain fits on the sprockets and chainrings) keep the dirt- since we do not reach these areas with the rag.

In this way, the dirt is not completely removed, and the chain has all the ballots to not function properly. Therefore, we dare to say that it is not the best cleaning technique that exists.

Using a brush

A brush can be a good option to clean bike chains. Always helping us with degreaser, we will brush the entire chain. We will also not forget areas that accumulate dirt, such as pinions and plates.

The most common way to brush the chain is by using gasoline as a degreaser. Many cyclists choose to remove the chain, dip it in gasoline and brush it after a certain rest in the fuel. However, there is also the option of not removing it, although it is a more uncomfortable practice.

Once the brushing has been carried out correctly, the other mechanical elements must be cleaned of degreaser. Taking into account the characteristics of this technique, we can say that it is one of the most effective, but it is also one of the most laborious. Although, without a doubt, the main disadvantage is having to disassemble and mount the chain.

Degreasing machine with roller

You may not know this little machine with a simple and effective mechanism. The tool to which we refer in this section is internally made up of two spirals with bristles that are moistened in a mini tank of degreaser.

When the machine is correctly positioned on the bike chain and has the right degreaser inside, the bristles will fit perfectly with the chain holes while the chain is moved with the pedal, allowing the cleaning of the chain to be thorough.

It is a mechanism that, apart from being quite fast, performs a deep cleaning on the chain, even in its holes. In addition, it is a cleaner technique, since the machine has some pads that are responsible for draining the liquid so that it does not drip.

How To Choose Your Mtb Tires?

Your tires are the first and only thing that connects you to the ground. It is also your first shock absorber!

Unfortunately, too often overlooked by novices, tires are essential parts of your bike. The choice of MTB tires influences comfort, traction, performance victory996, but also safety. You still have to know them well to make the most of all their possibilities.


Commonly, you will meet the dimension in this form, for example, 26 x 1.95 “

26″ corresponds to the diameter in inches of your wheel and 1.95 “corresponds to the width of your tire.

If the diameter is normalized (in adult mountain bikes, the wheels are 26 “, 27.5” or 29 “inches in diameter), it is not the same for the tire section.

Thus, we sometimes find tires of 1.75 as wide as tires of 1.95, themselves wider than 2.10.

The tire section is different depending on the brand because there is no standardization at this level.


It is made up of more or less thick nylon or cotton threads, braided.

On mountain bikes, the flexible carcasses offer more latitude in the deformation of the tire. So you will get greater traction and better comfort by absorbing shocks.

The number that determines the flexibility of the carcass is indicated by the number of TPI, an English measure indicating the number of threads per inch (1 inch = 2.5 cm). Above 100 TPI, the carcass is very flexible, and the tire considered to be a top of the range.


The screed covering the carcass is made up of a mixture of rubber and other chemical ingredients (such as silica), which influence the density, rolling resistance, adhesion of the mud to the rubber, wear and appearance.

Today, some tires have different hardness clevises depending on the area of ​​the tires.

Rods: These are the two hoops that press the tire onto the rim.

Rigid rods are made of steel wire. They are intended for entry-level tires (heavier) or tires that need to be perfectly maintained on the rim, despite low operating pressures.

The flexible rods are made of aramid or para-amide, including Kevlar, and are intended for high-end tires. Significantly lighter, they have the advantages of often easier mounting and ease of storage by offering the possibility of folding the tire.

The tubeless and Tubeless Ready tire tracks are specific to guarantee the tightness of the rim/tire pair.


The air pressure in the ATV tire affects its dynamic characteristics. Tires with a small section must be more inflated than large sections, to avoid punctures by pinching. It should also be borne in mind that over-inflation reduces grip, motor skills, and comfort by favoring performance on smooth terrain.

Conversely, when deflating, comfort improves as well as grip because the surface in contact with the ground is greater.


The role of a rear tire is to promote motor skills. For this, it is generally provided with aggressive studs on the tread. These are often perpendicular to the rolling direction, to bite the ground (in the form of paving stones, round or square). The study will be of lower height if the ground is dry and if the tire is intended to promote performance.

The front-wheel steers: it is largely on it that precision and grip in curves depend. For this reason, the crampon will be more aggressive, rather in the form of directional arrows, and more pronounced on the external edges of the tire (the area in contact with the ground, when the bike will take an angle).

The choice according to your practice:

Enduro – All mountain

The section around 2.35 “, aggressive side studs but round profile to maintain an advantageous performance.

DH – Descent

Large section with aggressive side studs that are well supported for maximum grip when cornering, and solid central blocks to resist the bending induced by heavy braking

XC – Cross Country

XC Roulant: fine and fairly low studs, a medium section, and an often lightened carcass for a minimum weight and maximum output. For dry and rolling terrain only. From 1.90 “to 2.15”.

XC Rocailleux: more volume for better shock absorption. Double or triple density eraser and prominent side studs for a more effective grip.


The section between 2.0 “and 2.2” spikes moderately spaced for excellent grip in all conditions.


Acclaimed by all mechanical sports, the pneumatic technology of Tubeless has logically taken over mountain biking. Hutchinson and Michelin collaborated with Mavic to popularize this system in 1998-1999. Tubeless is a tire that does not require an inner tube.

The tire and the rim form a watertight unit thanks to specific tire rods, the beads of which “clip” onto the shoulders of the rim.

The rim itself must be completely waterproof. Some are specifically designed for, while others can be transformed into Tubeless via a specific assembly.

Tubeless limits the risk of punctures by pinching (shearing of the chamber between the obstacle and the rim) and allows rolling with lower pressures.

Tires called Tubeless Ready were then developed to save weight by retaining the tubeless rods so that the tire clips into the rim but by requiring the use of preventive fluid to waterproof the carcass of the tire, which is lightened and approximates a Tubetype carcass (inner tube).

How To Choose Your Dirt / Street Mountain Bike?

Dirt, which comes from English Dirt Jumping (Dirt, which means earth, the surface on which this sport takes place), is a spectacular discipline that comes from BMX. It involves performing figures in the air, each with a name (Tailwop, Superman, Flair, 360 °, Backflip, etc.). The Dirters’ playing field is a field of earth bumps created from scratch with ramps and modules. Dirt is also practiced in town on artificial structures such as skate parks; this is called Street 3win2u.

In competition, a course is imposed, and the figures are scored by a jury on the difficulty, technique, height, fluidity, and style,

It is a very visual sport which makes it possible to make the show and to attract the spectators. There are several competitions in the world; the best-known championship is the FMBWT (Freeride Mountain Bike World Tour), where the best athletes of the discipline meet.


The Dirt MTB is a small compact (26 inches) MTB with a semi-rigid frame with low sloping, i.e., the upper tube descends low enough so that the saddle is not too high and leaves on the dirter the possibility of carrying out the figures easily. It must be solid and equipped with a front suspension with a small clearance (100 mm) to absorb shocks. Dirt is a risky practice with jumps that can go up to several meters high; the choice of the frame is, therefore important, it must be well adapted to avoid putting yourself in danger.

The Dirt MTB has a small handlebar for ease of handling, a single chainring like on BMX, and a single brake to slow down if necessary. They will have a brake sheath long enough for the pilot to perform tricks by turning the handlebars several times.


The most important element of the equipment: the helmet. It will serve to protect your head in the event of a fall; there is the bowl helmet or the full-face helmet, both types are common among the dirters, knowing that the full-face helmet is the one that will protect you the best. Whether you are a beginner or confirmed, you will need to include in your equipment various protections: knee pads, elbow pads, and a back protector.

You can’t improvise overnight, and it is strongly recommended to start on terrain with small bumps to acquire the technique, which will then allow you to progress to larger jumps.

How To Care For The Front Suspension Of Your Mountain Bike

Before each ride, you should check the fork of your bicycle. This way, you will check that all its parts are working, and you could even notice if any part, especially the covers, are in place and well fixed. It is very annoying to lose the caps and more if they are from controls since there are almost no spare parts or they are very expensive.

Clean the bars

Before using your bicycle, we must try to remove the dust and dirt that may be stuck on the bars of your suspension. This will prevent elements that could damage the operation of your suspension from entering the suspension spring below the retainers.

We recommend using a damp cloth or disposable towel, without any type of product that can wear down the rubber and plastic components of the seals.

By doing this, each outlet will avoid friction wear, and the suspension will work as it should.

Be careful when washing the bike with pressurized water.

If you are used to washing your bike with pressure water, you should be very careful about how to aim the gun at some parts of your bike.

Never point directly at the fork seals, since this component is the one that avoids passing dust inside the bottles; keeps oil and cushioning system isolated.

Use a fender

The simple mudguard will prevent the mud from the tire from being projected onto the bars and thus avoid possible scratches or direct blows that could affect its operation.

Protect your fork bottles

Although fork legs are very sturdy, they are the first to receive damage in most falls. So that it always looks like new, we recommend using a protective plastic mica that will preserve the paint on the bottles in better conditions, and you can always see your bike as new.

Protect your bike from the weather

When we have the need to leave or store the bicycle for personal reasons or accidents, we must consider the place where we are going to store it. Leaving the bike outdoors will do a lot of damage to all the components, frame, and obvious to your fork.

We recommend leaving it in an interior place that does not have humidity. But yes, you are not possible. Make sure that space where you keep it has a roof, and it is best to get a canvas or cover to cover your bike from environmental damage.

Maintain it regularly


Maintenance is recommended every 150 hours of use if it is frequently used, or every six months or every year if you do not use it much. This maintenance must be given by a suspension professional.


Not all garages have a suspension specialist. Therefore it is necessary that you get a workshop where they can do it or even a specialized workshop on suspensions only.